Somebody hands you a frag and calls it a chalice. It might be. It might be a favia, or an acan, or something nobody has named properly. This guide is how to tell, and what each one needs once you have it home.
Coral identification in this hobby is a mess, and there are reasons for it. Trade names get invented at frag swaps. Two corals that look nothing alike wear the same label because somebody’s mother colony sold under it years ago. And the features that actually separate one genus from another are usually small, structural, and invisible in the photo you were shown.
What follows is the reference we use in the shop. Every coral below is one we grow, hold, or ship from Key West, and every entry answers the same three questions: how do I recognize it, what does it need, and what goes wrong with it first.
About the numbers
The PAR figures here are starting points, not targets to chase. PAR measured at the coral is what matters, and it shifts with depth, fixture height, and how dirty the glass is. A coral sitting at the low end of its range that is growing and holding color does not need more light. The lighting guide covers how to measure it.
- Euphyllia
- Other LPS
- SPS
- Soft corals
- Zoanthids and palys
- Mushrooms
- Florida Keys species
- The care chart
- Commonly confused
- What is wrong with mine
Euphyllia: torch, hammer, frogspawn
Three corals, one genus, and the most commonly mixed-up group in the hobby. They separate on the shape of the tentacle tip and almost nothing else reliable. Color will not help you. Size will not help you. Look at the tips.
Torch coral
Euphyllia glabrescens

Long tubular tentacles ending in a rounded, slightly bulbous tip. They hang and flow rather than clustering, and each head sits on its own corallite tube, so the skeleton branches and heads can be cut apart. Under blue light the tips fluoresce hard, which is most of why people buy them.
Torches sting. Sweepers come out after dark and reach further than the coral looks capable of, so give a head at least four inches of clear space in every direction before gluing anything near it.

Shop torch corals · Torch care guide · Why is mine not extending?
Hammer coral
Euphyllia ancora (wall) · Euphyllia paraancora (branching)

Tentacle tips flatten into a T or anvil shape. That hammer head is the identification. Two skeletal forms sell under the same name: wall hammers grow as a continuous meandering ridge and cannot be divided without cutting through living tissue, branching hammers put each head on its own stalk and can. Ask which one you are buying, because it decides whether the piece is ever divisible.
Hammers shed tissue from the base upward when they run short on energy. The symbionts sit in the tentacles and oral region, not the body wall, so the base is the part that costs the most and returns the least. Bare skeleton climbing from the bottom while the tentacles above still look inflated is an early warning, not a late one.

Frogspawn
Euphyllia divisa

Tentacles branch and split near the tip, so each ends in several small knobs rather than one. The whole mass reads bushier and less orderly than a torch. Same care, same sting, same placement rules as the other two.

Other large polyp stony corals
Acan
Micromussa lordhowensis (formerly Acanthastrea lordhowensis)

Thick fleshy polyps packed side by side, each with a visible central mouth and concentric rings of color running out from it. The flesh is meaty enough that the skeleton disappears entirely when the coral is inflated. Acans take food readily and grow faster when fed, which is unusual enough among LPS to be worth exploiting.

Acanthastrea
Acanthastrea echinata and relatives

Larger, more separated corallites than an acan, with deeper valleys between them and a rougher skeletal texture under the flesh. Sold as the same thing often enough that the two names have blurred in the trade, but echinata polyps sit further apart and the coral tolerates a little more light.

Scolymia
Homophyllia australis and relatives

A single large disc-shaped polyp, one mouth, one animal. That is the identification. Scolys sit flat on sand or a low rock and inflate into a rounded cushion. They do not multiply into colonies, so what you buy is what you keep, which is why collector pieces carry the prices they do.
Low light and low flow. A scoly blasted with either will stay deflated and eventually recede at the edge of the skeleton.

Cynarina
Cynarina lacrymalis

Also one large polyp, but where a scoly is fleshy and opaque, a cynarina inflates into translucent bubbled lobes you can partly see through, with the skeletal septa visible underneath as radiating ridges. Deflated during the day, much larger at night.

Favia and Favites
Favia spp. · Favites spp.

Both are encrusting brain corals with rounded corallites packed across a dome. The difference is structural: favia corallites each have their own separate wall, so there is a visible groove between neighbors. Favites corallites share walls, so the pattern reads as a continuous honeycomb with no gap. Look at where two polyps meet.
Both send out sweeper tentacles at night that will burn a neighbor several inches away. Judge spacing by what happens after lights out, not by what the coral looks like at noon.

Chalice
Echinophyllia · Oxypora · Mycedium

A plating or encrusting sheet with scattered raised mouths across the surface, usually ringed in a contrasting color. Chalice covers several genera that the trade treats as one, and the eye-catching ones command real money for patterns that only appear under blue light.
They carry some of the longest sweepers in the hobby, reaching six inches or more. A chalice placed politely between two other corals will eventually clear the space around it.

Blastomussa
Blastomussa merletti · Blastomussa wellsi

Round fleshy polyps on individual short tubes, spaced apart rather than packed, so you see rock or skeleton between them. Wellsi polyps are larger and more separated, merletti smaller and denser. Blastos handle lower light than most LPS and tend to sulk under more.

Bubble coral
Plerogyra sinuosa

Grape-sized vesicles inflate during the day and deflate at night to expose feeding tentacles underneath. Those vesicles are delicate and tear on rock or a careless net. The sweepers that come out after dark are long and they sting hard.

Lobophyllia
Lobophyllia spp.

Large fleshy lobes, each a separate polyp with its own mouth, joined at the base into a dome. Bigger and more sculptural than an acan, with deep folds between lobes. Colors run to reds, greens, and combinations of both across a single colony.

Plate coral
Fungia and relatives

A free-living single polyp that sits loose on the sand rather than attaching to rock. Underneath is a disc of radiating septa like the gills of a mushroom. Plates can move themselves slowly across a sand bed and can right themselves if flipped, though not always fast enough to avoid smothering.
Keep them on sand, not rock. A plate wedged on rockwork tears its tissue on the edges.

Duncan
Duncanopsammia axifuga

Tubular heads topped with a ring of short tentacles around a visible green or cream center, growing on branching stalks. Duncans multiply readily, take food eagerly, and are one of the few LPS that will visibly add heads within months if you feed them.

Small polyp stony corals
SPS is where stability stops being advice and starts being the whole job. These corals hold color and grow when alkalinity, calcium, and temperature sit still, and they brown out or lose tissue when those numbers move. The swing matters more than the value.
Acropora
Acropora spp.

Branching, with one identifying feature no other genus has: an axial corallite at the tip of each branch, larger than the radial corallites along the sides. That single tip corallite is what makes an acro an acro. The pale growing tip you see on a healthy piece is that structure laying down new skeleton.
The most demanding coral most people will keep, and the one that punishes swings hardest. Rapid tissue necrosis can strip a colony in a day.

Montipora
Montipora spp.

No axial corallite, and the polyps are tiny and densely packed, giving the surface a fine fuzzy texture rather than the knobbly one an acro has. Grows in three forms sold under separate names: plating (capricornis), encrusting, and branching (digitata). All three are the same genus with the same needs.
The forgiving end of SPS. A montipora will tolerate parameter movement that would kill an acropora, which makes it the right first step.

Birdsnest
Seriatopora hystrix

Thin, brittle, needle-tipped branches forming a dense tangle. Snaps easily, which is a feature when you want frags and a nuisance when you are moving rock. Grows fast in stable water.

Pocillopora
Pocillopora damicornis

Stubbier branches than a birdsnest, covered in wart-like bumps called verrucae that give it a knobbly outline. Hardy, fast, and known for spawning planulae in the tank that settle and start new colonies on their own.

Anacropora
Anacropora spp.

Looks like a slender acropora but has no axial corallite, which places it closer to montipora. Thin fragile branches, fast growth, and usually cheaper than the acro it resembles.

Encrusting corals

A growth habit rather than a genus. Encrusting pieces spread as a sheet directly over rock instead of branching or plating, and several genera do it. They are the cheapest way to cover bare aquascape, and once established they hold territory against neighbors.

Soft corals
Leather corals
Sarcophyton · Sinularia

No stony skeleton. A thick rubbery trunk supporting a capitulum with polyps across the surface, which retract into the flesh and leave the coral looking deflated for days at a time. That shrinking is normal and usually precedes shedding a waxy surface layer, not dying.
Leathers release terpenes that suppress nearby stony corals. In a small tank that chemistry is a real constraint, and carbon helps.

Clove polyps
Clavularia spp.

Eight feathery tentacles per polyp, each rising from its own tube off a shared mat. The eight-tentacle count separates clove polyps from zoanthids, which have many more and a flat disc.
Some varieties spread across rockwork and do not stop. Put them on an island rock separated by sand unless you are prepared to remove them later.

Zoanthids and palythoas
Zoanthids
Zoanthus spp.

Flat round oral discs on short stalks, joined by a mat, with a fringe of short tentacles around the rim. Colors come in named morphs that sell for wildly different money based on pattern alone. Hardy, fast, and the right first coral for most people.
Closed zoas tell you something only if you read the pattern. All shut at once points at a whole-tank event. A few open beside closed neighbors points at predation.

Palythoa
Palythoa spp.

Larger polyps than zoanthids, with a thicker fleshier stalk and often a sandy texture from grit embedded in the tissue. The distinction matters for one reason.
Palytoxin
Palythoa can carry palytoxin, which is genuinely dangerous. Do not boil rock with polyps on it, do not scrape colonies in a closed room, and wear gloves and eye protection when handling or fragging. The zoanthid guide covers this properly, and it is worth reading before you cut anything.

Mushroom corals
Discosoma, Rhodactis and Ricordea

Three mushrooms sold as one category, separated by surface texture. Discosoma are smooth and flat with no visible bumps. Rhodactis carry branched, sometimes hairy outgrowths across the disc. Ricordea are covered in dense round bobbles, evenly spaced, like beading.
All three want the lowest light and the least flow in the tank. A mushroom that detaches and travels is telling you the spot is too bright or too strong.

Florida Keys species
We are licensed to collect and sell Florida marine life, which puts animals on our list that most coral retailers cannot offer at all. What follows comes out of the water we work in rather than off a pallet at an airport.
One thing worth stating plainly, because it gets muddled constantly: Florida protects its stony corals, and they cannot be taken from the wild. Every stony coral we sell is aquacultured at the shop in Key West under Florida Aquaculture Certificate #AQ0254072. What comes out of local water is the rest of the reef — ricordea, octocorals, macroalgae, inverts and fish — collected under license and inside state limits. Anyone selling you a wild-caught Florida acropora is selling you a story.
Ricordea florida
Ricordea florida

The Atlantic ricordea, and a different animal from the Pacific Ricordea yuma most stores stock. The disc is covered in dense round bobbles, evenly spaced, with the mouth raised on a short cone in the middle rather than sitting flat. Color runs to orange, gold and green, with blues and purples turning up rarely enough that they carry their own prices.
They divide by splitting rather than by dropping babies off the foot, so a settled piece slowly becomes two of itself. Give them the same treatment as any other mushroom: the shaded end of the tank and the softest flow you have. A ricordea that keeps detaching and traveling is telling you the spot is too bright.
Gorgonians
Sea fans, sea plumes and sea whips · various octocoral genera

This group splits into two halves that need opposite things, and buying the wrong half by accident is the most common way a gorgonian dies in a home tank.
Photosynthetic species — the purple, tan and olive plumes and whips — carry zooxanthellae and live on light plus water movement, the same as any other coral in this guide. They are forgiving and they grow.
Non-photosynthetic species — the bright oranges, reds and yellows that catch your eye first — have no symbiotic algae at all. They eat, and only that. Without frequent feeding of small suspended food they starve slowly over weeks while still looking fine, then strip from the base up. If the color is vivid and there is no brown or olive in it anywhere, assume it needs feeding until you have confirmed otherwise.
Either way, mount them upright and off the sand. A gorgonian lying against rock or substrate abrades in that spot and loses tissue there first.
What a local animal actually gets you
An Indo-Pacific coral leaves the reef, sits in a holding facility, flies for a day or more, clears customs, and passes through at least one wholesaler before anyone ships it to your door. Every one of those transfers is a chance to be bagged too long, run too hot or too cold, or held without food.
An animal collected here goes from local water into our system and stays in it until the day it ships to you. That is one transfer instead of five, and it is the reason we can tell you how a specific piece has been behaving rather than reading you a description off a wholesaler’s list.
Shop Florida Keys corals · Local inverts · Macroalgae · Reef restoration in the Keys
The care chart
Every coral above in one place. Sort your own priorities: if you have a low-light tank, read down the PAR column first.
| Coral | Type | PAR | Flow | Placement | Feeding | Aggression |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Torch | LPS | 75–150 | Moderate | Low–mid | Beneficial | High |
| Hammer | LPS | 75–150 | Moderate | Low–mid | Beneficial | High |
| Frogspawn | LPS | 75–150 | Moderate | Low–mid | Beneficial | High |
| Acan | LPS | 50–100 | Low–mod | Low / sand | Recommended | Low–mod |
| Acanthastrea | LPS | 75–150 | Low–mod | Low–mid | Recommended | Moderate |
| Scolymia | LPS | 50–100 | Low | Sand | Recommended | Low |
| Cynarina | LPS | 50–100 | Low | Sand | Recommended | Low |
| Favia | LPS | 75–150 | Moderate | Low–mid | Beneficial | High at night |
| Favites | LPS | 75–150 | Moderate | Low–mid | Beneficial | High at night |
| Chalice | LPS | 50–100 | Low–mod | Low–mid | Beneficial | Very high |
| Blastomussa | LPS | 50–100 | Low | Low | Beneficial | Low |
| Bubble | LPS | 50–100 | Low | Sand / low | Recommended | High |
| Lobophyllia | LPS | 75–150 | Low–mod | Low–mid | Recommended | Moderate |
| Plate (Fungia) | LPS | 75–150 | Low–mod | Sand only | Recommended | Low |
| Duncan | LPS | 50–120 | Low–mod | Low–mid | Recommended | Low |
| Acropora | SPS | 250–400 | Strong | Upper | Optional | Low |
| Montipora | SPS | 150–300 | Mod–strong | Mid–upper | Optional | Low |
| Birdsnest | SPS | 150–250 | Mod–strong | Mid–upper | Optional | Low |
| Pocillopora | SPS | 150–300 | Strong | Mid–upper | Optional | Low |
| Anacropora | SPS | 150–250 | Mod–strong | Mid–upper | Optional | Low |
| Leather | Soft | 75–150 | Mod–strong | Mid–upper | Optional | Chemical |
| Clove polyps | Soft | 75–150 | Moderate | Isolated | Optional | Spreads |
| Zoanthid | Soft | 75–150 | Moderate | Anywhere | Optional | Low |
| Palythoa | Soft | 75–150 | Moderate | Anywhere | Optional | Handle with care |
| Mushrooms | Soft | 30–75 | Low | Low, shaded | Optional | Low |
| Ricordea florida | Soft | 30–75 | Low | Low, shaded | Optional | Low |
| Gorgonian (photo) | Soft | 100–200 | Strong | Upright, off sand | Optional | Low |
| Gorgonian (non-photo) | Soft | Not required | Strong | Upright, off sand | Required | Low |
Corals people confuse
| Pair | What separates them |
|---|---|
| Torch vs hammer vs frogspawn | Tentacle tip: rounded and bulbous, flat anvil, or split into knobs. |
| Favia vs favites | Favia corallites have separate walls with a groove between. Favites share walls, so the pattern is a continuous honeycomb. |
| Acropora vs montipora | Acropora has an axial corallite at each branch tip. Montipora has none, and a fine fuzzy surface. |
| Acropora vs anacropora | Same look, but anacropora has no axial corallite. |
| Acan vs acanthastrea | Acan polyps pack tight with no gaps. Acanthastrea corallites sit further apart with deeper valleys. |
| Scolymia vs cynarina | Scoly flesh is opaque and cushioned. Cynarina inflates into translucent lobes with visible septa underneath. |
| Discosoma vs rhodactis vs ricordea | Smooth disc, branched outgrowths, or dense round bobbles. |
| Zoanthid vs palythoa | Palythoa polyps are larger, fleshier, often gritty in texture. Palytoxin risk is higher. |
| Zoanthid vs clove polyp | Count tentacles. Clove polyps have eight feathery ones. Zoanthids have many more around a flat disc. |
| Birdsnest vs pocillopora | Birdsnest branches are thin with needle tips. Pocillopora is stubbier and covered in wart-like verrucae. |
What is wrong with mine
Start with the symptom, not the species.
| Symptom | Where to look |
|---|---|
| Just arrived and will not open | New coral not opening after shipping |
| Turning white, or losing tissue | Bleaching vs STN vs RTN |
| Torch will not extend | Torch diagnostic guide |
| Hammer losing heads from the base | Hammer coral losing heads |
| Zoanthids closed | Zoanthid closure patterns |
| Something is eating it | Coral pests 101 |
| Parameters look wrong | Water parameters · pH in the reef tank |
| Not sure the light is right | Lighting: PAR, spectrum, photoperiod |
| New and want the easy ones | Best beginner corals |
Written by The Underwater Gardener, Key West, Florida. Florida Aquaculture Certificate #AQ0254072, licensed Florida marine life dealer. The husbandry here comes from growing and shipping these animals, not from a textbook. Corals ship UPS Overnight with a live arrival guarantee.
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