Torch Coral

Torch Corals for Sale — Aquacultured in Key West
Torch corals (Euphyllia glabrescens) are among the most sought-after LPS corals in the hobby — long, flowing tentacles tipped with glowing color that sway with every pulse of flow. From golds and neon greens to the coveted gold-tip, hellfire, and Aussie color morphs, a single torch head adds movement and drama that few corals can match.
Every torch coral below is aquacultured in our Key West, Florida greenhouse and photographed as the exact WYSIWYG piece you’ll receive — no surprises, and never wild-collected. Each order ships overnight under our Live Arrival Guarantee. Torches are in the same Euphyllia family as our hammer corals and frogspawn corals — or browse the full range of LPS corals.What to look at before you buy a torchA healthy torch inflates until the tentacles hide the skeleton, and it stays that way through the day. If the head is shrunken with bare skeleton showing at the base, or the tentacles read stringy and short rather than full, the animal is stressed and it is not a bargain at any price. Brown jelly is the one thing to walk away from outright — it moves through a colony in days and it will travel to the rest of your Euphyllia.Placement is where most torches are lost. They want moderate light, roughly 75 to 150 PAR, and gentle indirect flow. Aimed straight into a powerhead, a torch retracts and stays retracted. Give each head at least six inches of clearance in every direction, because the sweeper tentacles reach further than the coral looks and they will burn a neighbor overnight.Torches are slow to settle after shipping. Expect a day or two of partial extension before the head opens fully, and leave it alone during that window — repeated relocation is the most common reason a new torch fails.Every torch on this page is photographed in our Key West system under the light it grew under. Orders go out UPS Next Day Air on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and livestock transportation is free once your livestock subtotal reaches $349.The named torch morphs, and what the names actually meanTorch morph names are trade names, not science. Every torch on this page is Euphyllia glabrescens or a close relative; the name tells you what the tentacles and tips look like and roughly where the line came from, not what species it is. That matters when you shop, because two vendors can sell very different looking animals under the same name and neither is lying.24K Gold. Solid gold to amber tentacles, usually with a paler or matching tip, and no green in the body. The value is in how evenly the gold runs down the tentacle — a 24K that fades to dull tan near the base is a lesser animal than one that holds color to the head. Indo-sourced lines tend to run warmer than Aussie ones.Joker. Contrasting tentacle and tip, typically a purple, pink or lavender body against a sharply different tip color. Joker is the name most often stretched by sellers, so judge it on the photograph rather than the label.Gold Tip and Hellfire. Gold tip is a green or olive body running to a gold tip — the most common premium torch and usually the best value per polyp. Hellfire runs orange-red through the tentacle with a contrasting tip, and it is one of the slower growers.Aussie and Malaysian. A sourcing description, not a color. Aussie torches are generally thicker-tentacled and slower; Malaysian and Indo lines tend to have longer, more flowing tentacles and split more readily.Torch coral care, in numbersLight: 75–150 PAR. Torches color best in the middle of that band. Above roughly 200 PAR the tentacles shorten and the color washes out, and the animal is not happier for it.Flow: gentle and indirect. The test is visual — tentacles should sway like grass in a slow current, not whip or fold back against the head. Direct flow from a powerhead is the single most common placement error.Placement: lower to middle rockwork, with at least six inches of clear space on every side. Sweeper tentacles extend at night well past the daytime footprint.Water: alkalinity between 8 and 9 dKH held steady matters more than the exact number. Torches tolerate nutrients better than most LPS and will often look better in a tank running nitrate at 5–10 ppm than in one stripped to zero.Feeding: optional but useful. A torch will take small meaty food a couple of times a week and put on head splits faster for it. It does not need to be fed to survive.Common torch problemsIt will not open after shipping. Normal for one to three days. Leave it alone. The mistake is moving it repeatedly looking for a better spot, which restarts the clock every time.One head shrinks while the others look fine. Usually mechanical — a neighbor stinging it, or flow hitting that head directly. Check what is within reach after lights out before assuming disease.Brown jelly. A brown, mucus-like mass consuming tissue, usually spreading from a damaged head. Remove the affected head from the tank immediately; it moves fast and it will take the rest of your Euphyllia.Tentacles fine and stringy. Typically too much light or too much flow. Move it lower and out of the current before changing anything else.Questions we get askedWhy are torch corals expensive? They grow slowly. A torch adds heads by splitting, which takes months, so supply of any named morph expands slowly no matter how many people want it. Premium color morphs are also propagated from a limited number of parent colonies.Is a single head worth buying over a multi-head colony? For most tanks, yes. A single head of a good morph establishes faster, costs far less, and will split on its own. Buy the animal, not the head count.Can torches touch other Euphyllia? Hammers, frogspawn and torches are often kept adjacent and usually tolerate each other, but torches are the most aggressive of the three and will win the exchange. Give them space anyway.How long before it splits? In a stable tank with light feeding, expect visible new head development in three to six months. A torch that has not moved in a year is usually telling you about flow or light, not about genetics.